Everything You Need to Know About Skiing in Andorra

I recently wrote about my time in the capital city of Andorra la Vella while on vacation in the tiny European micro-nation of Andorra. As I mentioned in that post, the first question I was asked by most when I told them I was going there was “Where is Andorra?!” I realize it’s a tiny speck on a map, but it was really quite surprising that so few people had heard of it!

I’m always planning my next travel destination and fastidiously studying maps of the world. So, Andorra had already made it onto my list of places to eventually tick off my bucket list. This would most likely have been on a day trip from Spain or France just to say I’ve been there. But after visiting this beautiful dot on the map, I can tell you that one day in Andorra is NOT ENOUGH.

Skiing in Andorra

Luckily, I happened to hear about a ski trip being planned to Andorra by a local Boston ski club. Skiing in Andorra?! While I had heard of the country before, I hadn’t realized that it was nestled smack dab in the middle of the Pyrenees mountain range. I certainly had never thought about taking a ski trip there! So I was sold. Sign me up. I’m in.

As it turns out, skiing is the number one source of tourism in Andorra. Alpine skiing was actually declared to be a “national interest” by the Andorran government in 1965, and nearly 30 Andorran skiers have competed in 10 Olympic games. While it is a fairly popular ski destination for Europeans, Andorra is less well known for non-Europeans like me.

Andorra used to mainly attract skiers looking for a cheap and lively ski holiday. But over the past few decades there has been a strong focus on improving the infrastructure and amenities. Now the elevated offerings of the ski resorts and their mountain villages attract a more luxe clientele, as well as more families. Even with these improvements, the value of what you get for your money in Andorra is still unmatched. You can have a luxurious vacation at a much cheaper price tag than you could in other European cities and ski towns.

There are 2 main ski areas in Andorra: Grandvalira and Vallnord. Grandvalira is the largest ski area in the Pyrenees and was the location of choice for the Boston ski club trip to Andorra. Vallnord is smaller but is great for families and beginners. I didn’t have a chance to ski this resort but I have heard that the Ordino-Arcalis section of Vallnord has the best off-piste skiing in Andorra.

Grandvalira

Grandvalira is actually comprised of 6 smaller villages: Encamp, Canillo, El Tarter, Soldeu, Grau Roig, and Pas de la Casa. Grandvalira itself was established in 2003 when the smaller ski resorts of Soldeu/El Tarter (founded in 1964) and Pas de la Casa/Grau Roig (founded in 1965) merged to form one massive resort. It is now one of the largest ski resorts in the world!

The resorts are interlinked so it is possible to ski between all 6 villages in one day. If you find yourself at the far end of the resort at the end of the day, there is a ski bus that will drop you back off in your village. Or you can take the bus if you decide to imbibe in some après ski beverages rather than returning straight home. With the cheap drinks and lively après atmosphere, this was a frequent occurrence during my trip!

Pro Tip: Take advantage of the cost-effective “Lift Pass & Lunch” offer at Grandvalira, which can only be booked online in advance of your visit.

Mountain Stats and Observations

Grandvalira boasts 210 km of skiable terrain at an altitude up to 2,640 meters. The average snowfall is 216” per year, and more than half of the terrain is serviced by 1,000 snowmaking machines. There are a total of 62 lifts, including 3 gondolas and 20 high-speed lifts. They can carry 100,000 skiers per hour!

Grandvalira is suited for all levels of skiing. Of the 128 trails, 16% are designated beginner (green), 38% intermediate (blue), 30% advanced (red), and 17% expert (black). One of my observations is that there certainly were A LOT of beginners on the mountain. There is not one specific beginner area so I definitely had to swerve to avoid beginners all across the mountain.

There is also no concept of queuing up at the lift line. I don’t think this can be attributed to there being a lot of beginners. Instead, I think it was a consequence of the casual attitude in general at this European resort. It was mayhem trying to funnel hundreds of people onto the lift in an orderly fashion. And since people were not lined up appropriately, they often let a half-full lift go by while they waited for their companions to catch up in line. It was clearly not a model of efficiency. On the flip side, the expert terrain was WAY less crowded with smaller lift lines. So I tended to stick to those parts of the mountain.

The casual vibe of the mountain also had its benefits though. There are countless dining options on the mountain. Many of them involve either silver service or lounge chairs and ALL of them involve champagne. My impression was that a lot of patrons were at Grandvalira for the atmosphere rather than the skiing, and I tried to embrace that mindset. So, while I might not have had the most intense week of skiing, I filled my days with long, lazy lunches in the warm sunshine, glass of champagne in hand. And I couldn’t have been happier.

FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup

I also happened to be in Andorra at a great time in the country’s ski history. Grandvalira hosted the 2019 FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup Finals for the first time ever two weeks following my visit. Pretty good for a country/mountain most people outside of Europe have never heard of, eh? So there was an all-around buzz of excitement and pride on the mountain. And Veuve-Clicquot was a sponsor which could explain the ubiquity of champagne!

For me, it was exciting to ski the Avet trail, one of the two championship runs that were being prepped for the professionals. The other championship run, Àliga, was unfortunately closed to the public. Most exciting of all was the opportunity to ride the chairlift with Tessa Worley, a member of the French Olympic team. She and Coralie Frasse-Sombet were at Grandvalira for training runs in preparation for the upcoming World Cup Finals. The laid back atmosphere of the mountain meant that the Olympians had to wait in line at the lift just like me!

Village Overview

Encamp

Encamp is the closest village to the capital city of Andorra la Vella (about a 10-minute drive). It is one of the larger villages and has more of a “town” feel than the other villages. The issue with Encamp, however, is that the village is not directly at the base of skiable terrain. You need to take a 15-minute ride on the Funicamp cable car to reach the slopes. You’ll get a nice view along the way though and end up in the middle of the mountain near the Solanelles lodge.

Where to Eat/Drink

El Racó de Solanelles has THE BEST panoramic view from its terrace. I highly recommend stopping here for a break from skiing to enjoy the view with a glass of champagne in hand (obvi). It is also possible for non-skiers to reach this restaurant quite easily upon exiting the funicular.

Where to Après

L’Après Amélie is an aptly named bar at the base of the mountain. It is located in the same building as the funicular, on an outdoor terrace behind the cafe. I was there on a Sunday so it was pretty quiet but I’ve heard it has a vibrant scene on Fridays and Saturdays. There was a phenomenal sunset and a “buy-one-get-one-free” happy hour drink special while I was there. Two drinks and an amazing sunset for 8 euros was worth the trek down to Encamp village!

Canillo

Canillo is the next village you pass along the mountain road. This is where I stayed while in Andorra. It is one of the quieter villages so if you are looking for rowdy nightlife, this isn’t the place. It has a handful of restaurants and shops and a nice walking path along the river.

There is also a scenic viewpoint called Mirador del Roc del Quer de Canillo on a mountain overlooking the village. I hired a taxi to navigate the switchback roads up the mountain to the viewpoint. Unfortunately it was closed due to weather but the ride up the viewpoint was still worth it!

Like in Encamp, you need to take a gondola from the base of Canillo to reach skiable terrain but the ride is much shorter. There are only a handful of runs in the Canillo area. It is definitely an area that is great for families and beginners. If you want to tackle more difficult runs and explore the rest of the mountain then you need to take several lifts in a row. I found it difficult to make my way back across the resort to the Canillo gondola before it closed. In fact, I only did this on the last day I was there since I wanted to finish off the trip with a zipline adventure.

The zipline is located at the top of the gondola and is the longest zipline in southern Europe. You reach speeds up to 80 km/h at a height of 40m above the ground. I didn’t find it to be that fast or scary, probably because I am not afraid of heights. But it was still fun! There is also a toboggan run at the top of the gondola but I sadly ran out of time to test it out.

There are more non-ski activities at the base of the gondola in the village of Canillo. The Palau de Gel (Ice Palace) houses an Olympic-size swimming pool and ice rink, among other sporting activities such as squash. I partook in the ice-karting race (driving go-karts on the ice rink) while I was there. It was hilarious and entertaining to see all the karts sliding across the ice. It is definitely harder than it looks. I don’t think I’ll become a professional ice-kart racer any day soon!

Where to Eat/Drink

The only options in Canillo to eat on the mountain are La Cuina del Forn (self-service) or Roc de Les Bruixes (mountain cuisine). In town, Restaurant El Solà has great grilled meats and paella, and Restaurant Moli del Peano serves traditional fondue. If you go to the Mirador del Roc del Quer, plan to stop for lunch at Borda Pi, a rustic farmhouse restaurant near the viewpoint that shares the same spectacular views.

My other recommendation for a great dinner near Canillo is Restaurant Borda l’Era del Rossell. It is located in the hamlet of Meritxell, which is a 5-minute taxi ride from Canillo. A “borda” is a rustic restaurant that serves authentic Andorran mountain cuisine and is a must-do. I went here on my last night and had an outrageously delicious meal. It consisted of foie gras, beef carpaccio, beef filet served with potatoes and vegetables, and a molten chocolate cake for dessert. Needless to say, I definitely indulged.

I also finally got to try the Andorran wine. Though Andorra is nestled between Spain and France (two countries known for their quality wine production), the first Andorran wine wasn’t produced until 2009. I tried one of the first red wines produced in Andorra from the Casa Auvinyà vineyards. The small-batch vineyards in Andorra typically do not export their wine outside of the country so I couldn’t miss my chance to try it. My server pointed out a handwritten number on the back label. I had bottle 352 out of only 1,000 produced!

Where to Après

As mentioned, Canillo is a pretty quiet village. If you are looking for an après spot, try Blot Viking Bar which serves craft beer and pub food. It is very unassuming from the outside but chicly decorated on the inside. This is the closest you’ll get to finding nightlife in Canillo!

Where to Stay

I stayed at the 5-star Hotel Ski Plaza & Wellness, which was about a 5-minute walk to the gondola. The rooms were on the smaller side but there were a few cozy common spaces with fireplaces to relax in, as well as a children’s playroom. There is also a lobby bar that had a pretty lively scene most nights! The hotel has a relaxing spa with a whirlpool, sauna, and steam room. But access costs an additional charge. However, guests of the hotel also get free access to the Palau de Gel (Ice Palace) leisure center right across the street.

Soldeu/El Tarter

The villages of Soldeu and El Tarter are next along the mountain road and are often lumped together. These sections of the mountain have terrain for all levels of skiers but the expert-level runs are the big draw. The two championship runs for the 2019 FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup Finals are located in Soldeu/El Tarter. I took advantage of the opportunity to take a few laps down Avet, in Soldeu, the championship run that was open to the public. It was definitely one of my favorite trails on the mountain! The other championship run, Àliga, in El Tarter, was closed while I was there. It is one of the 2 trails that make up the iconic “X”  that inspired the Grandvalira logo.

Where to Eat/Drink

The highlight of the dining options in Soldeu is hands down the Veuve Clicquot Snow Club. It is located on the sun terrace outside the Brasserie Gall de Bosc steak house so you can enjoy a delicious hamburger with your bottle of ice-cold champagne. I seriously could have sat here in the sun with a glass of champagne for the entire day.

For a similar experience in El Tarter, you can check out the Terrassa IQOS or Snow Club El Tarter. These establishments both have sun terraces and either a DJ or live music daily. For non-skiers, it is possible to reach the Snow Club El Tarter from the top of the gondola.

Where to Après

The best après ski spot in Grandvalira, in my opinion, is L’Abarset, located at the base of the mountain in El Tarter. It has an expansive outdoor terrace with heat lamps to keep revelers warm into the night. The terrace starts to get crowded around 4 pm when the DJ or other entertainment gets the party started. Pro tip: you need to purchase a prepaid card at the entrance of the terrace before ordering drinks at the bar. Money and credit cards aren’t accepted at the bar itself after 4 pm.

Where to Stay

The villages of Soldeu and El Tarter are known for their higher-end accommodations with slope-side access. So if you’re looking for luxury and convenience with excellent value for your money, this is the place. I am definitely staying in one of these two villages on my next trip to Andorra (yes, I’m already planning my trip back). Here are a few hotel recommendations in Soldeu/El Tarter:

• Sport Hotel Hermitage & Spa (5-star hotel in Soldeu)
• Sport Hotel Village (4-star hotel in Soldeu)
• Hotel Nòrdic (4-star hotel El Tarter)
• Euroski Mountain Resort (4-star hotel in El Tarter)

Grau Roig

The Grau Roig (or “Grau”) sector of Grandvalira is at the heart of the mountain, between Soldeu and Pas de La Casa. There are fabulous trails and great views to be had in this part of the mountain. However, the “village” is not really a village at all. Grau Roig is the only non-residential sector on the mountain, consisting of just one slope-side hotel.

Where to Eat/Drink

Though there isn’t really a commercialized village in Grau Roig, this sector of Grandvalira is a mecca for fantastic on-mountain dining. Restaurant Tres Estanys (Mediterranean), Restaurant Braseria Piolet (mountain cuisine), and Vodkabar (gourmet tapas) are three great options in this sector with a nice atmosphere for both indoor and outdoor dining.

My top recommendation for lunch is Refugi Llac del Pessons, which has been offering gourmet mountain cuisine for 25 years. Pro tip: make a lunch reservation ahead of time to avoid a long wait!

For a lighter lunch or just for a bubbly break, you must try Amélie Experience, which is a collaboration between Grandvalira and the Amélie oyster brand. It is located on the sun terrace next to Refugi Llac del Pessons, and both establishments overlook the frozen Lake Pessons. Grab a lounge chair if you can, and order a few refreshing oysters and a glass of Louis Roederer Champagne. It’s the perfect place to relax in the sunshine and blue skies, with one of the best views on the mountain!

Another must-see locale on the mountain is the Hotel Iglú in Grau Roig, which is made 100% from snow. You can either stop for lunch at the Iglú Terrace or grab a glass of bubbly from the Iglú Bar and relax on a lounge chair in the sunshine (see the theme here?).

Where to Après & Stay

There is really only one après and lodging option in Grau Roig and that is Grau Roig Andorra Boutique Hotel & Spa, a slope-side luxury hotel and spa.

Pas de la Casa

Pas de la Casa (or “Pas”) village is the farthest from Andorra’s capital and is actually directly on the border with France. It is the largest of the villages, with many lodging, restaurant, and bar options. Pas also capitalizes on Andorra’s low tax status with an abundance of duty-free shops. It is certainly lacking the charm of some of the smaller villages, but if you are looking for a lively and affordable option, then Pas is for you. It’s known for its party atmosphere with après often extending into the early hours of dawn.

The village is perfectly situated at the bottom of the Pas de la Casa sector of Grandvalira; the trails funnel down into the village in the valley. The terrain is suitable for all levels of skiers, and you can easily access the Grau Roig sector from the Pas lifts as well. Plus, the view at the top of the Pas sector is unmatched, spanning across Grandvalira and into France.

Where to Eat/Drink

There is no shortage of restaurant options in the actual village of Pas de la Casa. On the mountain, you can’t miss the panoramic views of both the French and Spanish Pyrenees at the UFO-like Coll Blanc KSB Restaurant.

Where to Après

There are a plethora of après options in Pas de la Casa, starting with Cala Bassa Costa Rodona (CBbC), at the base of the mountain. It is the sister establishment to Cala Bassa Beach Club in Ibiza, and brings that party atmosphere to this mountain town.

The former Les Abelletes is now the Mazaya Igloo terrace and is a contender for the title of “Ibiza on snow.” Other popular après options in town include the Red Lion, Milwaukee Bar, Paddy’s Irish Pub, and the Underground.

Which restaurant or après spot would you check out first?

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