Perfect Weekend in Prague: Old Town

Prague, the capital city of the Czech Republic, is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Rightly so, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992. Prague is nicknamed the “City of a Hundred Spires” for good reason. The city skyline is replete with gorgeous architecture ranging in style from Baroque to Gothic to Romanesque to Rococo. However, another apt nickname for Prague could be the “City of a Hundred Red Roofs,” as the view from the many spires and other lookout points around the city is an oasis of red roofs sitting atop the buildings of the Old Town and Malá Strana sections of Prague.

I had heard for years that it was better to visit Prague sooner rather than later, while the city was still reminiscent of the Communist era, during which time the city was not very open to tourism. I first visited Prague in April 2009, exactly 20 years after Communist rule ended in 1989. Since then, I’ve been fortunate to visit Prague two more times, in November 2012 and most recently in September 2018.

With each visit, I’ve become more familiar with the winding alleyways of the Old Town (Staré Město) and the hilly streets of the Lesser Town (Malá Strana) leading up Hradčany Hill to Prague Castle. The close proximity of the majority of the top sights to see in Prague, combined with the many pedestrian-only areas, make this a great walking city (as long as you’re wearing comfortable shoes!). You can easily check off all the sights on your Prague bucket list in two to three days!

Municipal House

I recommend starting your first day in Prague in Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky), on the Eastern edge of Old Town. Take a close look at the beautiful mosaic above the entrance of the Art Nouveau-style Municipal House (Obecní dům). It was here in 1918 that the former Czechoslovakia declared independence from the Austro-Hungarian empire.

Powder Tower

Directly next to the Municipal House is the Neo-Gothic-style Powder Tower (Prašná brána). It was named as such because it was used to store gunpowder in the 17th century. This is the first of the many options to take in the city from a bird’s-eye view. It is best to climb the Powder Tower as close as possible to when it opens at 10:00 AM for two reasons. First, you will beat the crowds from the tourist buses, and, second, the sun will be rising from behind the Powder Tower. This will give you the best light for photos across the Old Town, all the way up the hill to the Prague Castle and St. Vitus’ Cathedral.

After taking in the views from the top of the Powder Tower, wander down the pedestrian-only Celetná Street towards Old Town Square. Celetná Street was part of the Royal Route, which was the path the king would follow for his coronation ceremony in St. Vitus’ Cathedral. The route started from Vyšehrad Castle and went down Celetná Street through Old Town Square, over the Charles Bridge, and up to the Prague Castle grounds, where St. Vitus’ Cathedral is located.

Old Town Hall

The main attraction in Old Town Square, and one of the most notable sights in all of Prague, is the Old Town Hall and its astronomical clock. Every hour on the hour from 9:00 AM – 3:00 PM, the wooden figures of the 12 apostles dance and the tower bells ring. Make sure to time your visit accordingly! The Old Town Hall Tower is your second opportunity for a bird’s-eye view of the city. You can ascend the nearly 70-meter high tower via the ramp winding its way up, or you have the luxury of taking an elevator to the viewing gallery (a rarity in Old Europe!). Pro tip: buy an mTicket online ahead of time to save money and skip the line.

Church of Our Lady Before Týn

The Gothic-style Church of Our Lady Before Týn rises high above the smaller, red-roofed buildings surrounding it. The view of this church from the Old Town Hall is one of the most quintessential views in Prague. If it looks like the church towers are uneven, that’s because they are! The south tower is about 1 meter taller than the north tower, which was apparently the style at the time the church was built.

Old Town Square

Once back on ground level, spend some time exploring the beautiful façades of the buildings dotted around the Old Town Square. Don’t miss the Baroque-style Church of St. Nicholas, the Rococo-style Golz-Kinský Palace, the Gothic-style House at the Stone Bell, and the Renaissance-style House at the Minute.

At the center of Old Town Square is a memorial to Jan Hus. He was burned at the stake in 1415 for proposing radical church reform. By this point in the day, you’re probably tired and hungry. Grab a beer and some goulash with knedliky dumplings at one of the cafes in the square and take a much-needed break! Full disclaimer: this might not be the best meal you’ll have in Prague, but the cafes on the square are great for people-watching!

Charles Bridge

After lunch, meander down Karlova (Charles Street) towards the Charles Bridge. You’ll likely get lost in the winding streets along the way, but that is part of the fun! You’ll eventually reach the riverbank, and you’ll see the Charles Bridge (Karlův most) spanning the Vltava River. The bridge is flanked by the Old Town Bridge Tower on one side and the Lesser Town Bridge Towers on the Malá Strana side. The viewing galleries from the bridge towers are your third and fourth opportunities to take in the city from a bird’s-eye view. These views are still on my bucket list for my next trip back to Prague!

Charles Bridge is unique because of the 30 statues of saints and other religious figures that are installed along both sides. Although they are all reproductions now (the originals are in museums across the city), they are still an impressive sight. If you’re interested in religion, you’ll definitely enjoy learning the history behind each statue. One of the more famous statues is that of St. John of Nepomuk. The belief is that rubbing the brass relief of the saint being thrown over the bridge will bring you good luck (I have no idea why since this seems like a pretty unlucky situation to me), and rubbing the brass dog to the left has also become popular.

The Charles Bridge is obviously one of the highlights of a trip to Prague, but it can get CROWDED! During the day there are mobs of tourists, souvenir hawkers, and some (actually pretty talented) street performers. I recommend taking a quick stroll on the bridge at this point in the day. Then, make a plan to come back either later in the evening or first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds. On my latest trip to Prague, I set my alarm for 5 AM to watch the sunrise over Old Town from the Charles Bridge. It was definitely worth the early wake-up call!

Jewish Quarter

If you have time and energy remaining, you should take a stroll through the Jewish Quarter (Josefov). The segregation and ostracism of the Czech Jewish population has unfortunately been recurrent throughout much of the region’s history. The Jewish citizens were moved to a small area of the city (the ghetto), most recently during World War II, before being deported to concentration camps.

I recommend devoting more time to this area if you have a third day to spare to give it the proper respect it is due. However, if you are tight for time, then your priority should definitely be to visit the Old Jewish Cemetery. The graves were built in layers on top of each other when there was no room left on the ground because this was one of the few burial sites available to the Jewish population in Prague. The contrast in height between the cemetery and the streets surrounding it is quite striking.

Other notable sites in the Jewish Quarter are the Old-New Synagogue (Europe’s oldest surviving synagogue), the Pinkas Synagogue (where the names of the ~80,000 Holocaust victims are listed on a wall), and the Jewish Town Hall Clock (the hands of the clock turn backward, and Hebrew letters on the clock face read from right to left).

Where To Eat

For dinner options tonight, I recommend splurging at Restaurant V Zátiší, or Cotto Crudo. The latter has amazing views of Prague Castle, if you are lucky enough to score a table on their outdoor patio! If you are looking for a less expensive dinner with no-frills service, try the beer garden at U Fleků. This is Prague’s oldest brewing pub and is an interesting experience to say the least. The waiters are gruff, and they only serve one type of beer. There are also shots of some type of sweet alcohol, which they automatically bring to the table (but are not free!). And of course, when in Prague, a stop at the Absintherie is a must-do!

After a long day of sightseeing, get a good night’s sleep and be ready to explore my recommendations for what to do in the Prague Castle District the next day!

Did I miss any must-see sites in Old Town Prague? Comment below!

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