The legendary skiing in Japan is becoming more and more well-known to powderhounds across the globe. The iconic Japanese village of Nozawa Onsen in the Nagano Prefecture, where I had the chance to spend a few days this winter, is deservedly securing a spot on the bucket lists of many ski aficionados.
Unlike some of the bigger resorts, like Niseko on the northern island of Hokkaido, visitors don’t just go to Nozawa Onsen for the world-class skiing. They also come for the tradition, culture, gastronomy…and the chance to soak in the abundance of piping hot Japanese onsen hot spring baths dotted around the town.
Onsen is the Japanese word for hot springs (“on” means warm; “sen” means spring). Soaking in an onsen hot spring bath is by far the best way to soothe sore muscles after a long day of skiing! But you shouldn’t reserve a visit to an onsen just for the winter season. A popular year-round activity in Nozawa Onsen is to partake in a “sotoyu-meguri” — which is kind of like an onsen pub crawl.
Read on for a guide to onsen-hopping your way across Nozawa Onsen, Japan.
Table of Contents
Shu-in Stamp Trail
There are 13 public onsens, known as soto-yu, spread across the compact, walkable village. They are all included as stops on the Shu-in (Stamp Trail), a scavenger hunt-like activity unique to Nozawa Onsen. I recommend purchasing a Shu-in-cho stamp booklet from either the Hot Spring Sightseeing Information Center or the Ryokan Society prior to starting your onsen-crawl.
Nozawa Hot Spring Sightseeing Information Center
Address | 9780-4 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 8:30 AM–5:30 PM Daily
Cost | ¥462 for Shu-in-cho (stamp booklet)
Website | Google Maps
Nozawaonsen Ryokan Society
Address | 9521 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 9 AM–5:30 PM Daily Cost | ¥462 for Shu-in-cho (stamp booklet)
Website | Google Maps
Check out this video for visual instructions for the Shu-in Stamp Trail!
Each onsen has a stand outside with a unique engraving and a number corresponding to a page in the stamp booklet. When you visit an onsen, find the paper inside the booklet associated with it by number. Use the wooden stick attached to the stand to rub over the paper, producing an imprint of the “stamp.” If you collect at least 10 stamps, you can bring the filled booklet to the tourism association to receive a Nozawa Onsen onsen bath towel as a gift!
Onsen Water Properties
Each of the 13 public onsens has been awarded the prestigious “gensen kakenagashi” status, the highest onsen standard in Japan, meaning that the natural hot spring water flows directly and continuously from its original hot spring source. To be an official onsen, the water must be at least 25°C when it comes out of the ground. The scalding hot temperature of the onsen water ranges between 40-90°C! (There is a cold water faucet in each onsen to cool the water to a more comfortable temp but make sure to check with others first and to turn the cold water off before leaving!)
All of the onsens are known for their capability to reduce stress, stimulate metabolism, and accelerate recovery from fatigue and illness. Another prerequisite for an official onsen is that the water must contain at least one of the 19 chemical elements naturally-occurring in hot spring water. The mineral-rich water has different healing properties depending on the hot spring source so there are benefits to hopping from one onsen to the next.
The color of the water in the onsens also ranges from clear to green, depending on the natural hot spring source. Some of the onsens also have highly sought-after yunohana, also known as “onsen flowers,” which are floating particles of natural minerals and salts that promote beautiful skin.
Onsen Bathhouse Amenities
The onsens are simple and rustic with a calm atmosphere and there is a separate bath and changing area for each gender. They have been controlled since the Edo period (1603 – 1868) by a system known as Yunakama (hot spring association), under which they are cleaned and maintained by the local residents of each onsen district. So, while the 13 public onsen are free to enter, donations are appreciated by the villagers to help with maintenance (look for the donation box outside each onsen).
Related: How to Visit the World-Famous Japanese Snow Monkeys
There are no amenities provided in the public onsen, so you should bring your own soap and towel! Many of the hotels and ryokan in town provide their guests with a complimentary “onsen kit” containing a towel and toiletries such as shampoo, soap, and toothbrush/toothpaste. Many accommodations will also provide guests with a yukata (a light cotton kimono) bathrobe to wear to and from the onsen.
Onsen Etiquette
It is not uncommon to encounter local villagers using the onsen for their daily bath and a polite greeting is encouraged when you do. It’s important to be respectful and follow the guidelines of onsen-bathing, such as washing your body before getting in the onsen, bathing naked (!), making sure not to put your towel in the water, and drying off before entering the changing area. When in doubt, follow the lead of the locals!
Check out this video for visual instructions for Japanese Onsen Etiquette!
Public Onsen
O-yu Onsen
The O-yu bathhouse is regarded as the symbol of Nozawa Onsen and is a great place to start your onsen pilgrimage. It is located in the heart of the village, right on the main shopping street, Oyu-dori.
Housed in a grand, Edo-style wooden building, it is one of the largest onsen with a nice, updated interior. O-yu is the most famous onsen to visit, and is equally popular among locals and tourists alike. For this reason, I recommend avoiding visiting during peak afternoon hours.
The onsen water is fed from a simple sulfur spring. Its healing properties have been known to help combat rheumatism, gastrointestinal illness, and gynecological illness. Be careful when bathing though because the water is some of the hottest you will find (close to 60°C) due to the onsen’s location close to the source near the top of the village!
Address | 8765 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Kawahara-yu Onsen
From O-yu, I recommend walking straight down the lane in front of you when exiting the bathhouse, past Tanuki Cafe on your right, to Kawahara-yu bathhouse just past it on the left. This onsen is also housed in an Edo-style wooden building that was actually built relatively recently. In my opinion, it has the most beautiful, light-filled interior out of all of the public onsen.
Like O-yu, the water temperature is on the higher end of the spectrum (close to 60°C). It is fed from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt which is said to be especially effective against skin diseases.
Address | 8759 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Taki-no-yu Onsen
From Kawahara-yu, follow the lane across the street and then turn right and walk uphill towards the Ogama cooking onsen. At the Ogama cooking onsen, take a left and then the second right and you will find the Taki-no-yu bathhouse. Because it is located off the beaten path at the top of the village, you are more likely to have the bath to yourself!
This onsen is housed in another Edo-style wooden building (the consistent style makes it easy to spot most onsen!), but has a somewhat dated interior aesthetic.
Taki-no-yu is fed from a sulfur spring with calcium sodium-chloride, with greenish water that is VERY hot (around 78°C). You may be lucky to find black yunohana particles (onsen flowers) floating in the water here. It is said to be most effective when recovering from a serious illness.
Address | 8217 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Asagama-no-yu Onsen
From Taki-no-yu, retrace your steps and head back down the hill from the Ogama cooking onsen. You will see Furusato-no-yu down a tiny lane on your right (more info on that below). Keep going down the hill and Asagama-no-yu onsen will be at the corner of an intersection on the right.
This wooden building is not as grand as the first 3 mentioned so far, and also has an outdated, pink interior aesthetic. Nevertheless, this onsen is beloved by the locals and also for beginners, since the water temperature is on the lower end of the spectrum.
The onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and you are likely to find yunohana particles (onsen flowers) floating in the bath. The water here is said to be effective against diabetes, hemorrhoids, and rheumatism, among other ailments.
Address | 8759 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Shin-yu Onsen
After exiting Asagama-no-yu, walk a few yards downhill and take a sharp right. Then walk uphill past Gochisou Pizza Bar, take the last right after passing Shimataya View Hotel on your left, and Shin-yu onsen will be on your right. Shin-yu bathhouse was renovated in 2006 and is another Edo-style wooden building that resembles a smaller replica of the O-yu onsen.
The onsen water is similar to that in Asagama-no-yu — it originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and is very hot (around 55°C). The water here is unique in that it changes color depending on the season and climate. It is said to be very good for skin conditions, such as acne, and is also effective against diabetes, hemorrhoids, and rheumatism, among other ailments.
Address | 8278-2 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Kamitera-yu Onsen
From the Shin-yu bathhouse, retrace your steps again and turn left back down the hill. Take the right immediately after the Shimataya View Hotel, down a steep lane, and you will reach Kamitera-yu onsen. It is located in a nice wooden building, with an interior that is in the middle of the renovation spectrum, being neither outdated nor updated.
The onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt, has a bluish-green color, and is on the hotter side (around 50°C), and has a bluish-green appearance. It is said to be effective against cuts, burns, and other skin lesions. In addition, it is also known to combat diabetes and hemorrhoids.
Address | 8961 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Kumanoteara-yu Onsen
Kumanoteara-yu onsen is located literally just around the corner from the Kamitera-yu bathhouse. This bathhouse is in a renovated, wooden building with a beautiful, updated interior but has quite the history. Legend has it that Nozawa Onsen originated here, when a hunter followed a bear (kuma in Japanese) who had injured his paw (teara in Japanese) to this location and witnessed the bear finding relief for his pain from the hot spring water.
Like Kamitera-yu, the onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and is said to be effective against burns and cuts. This onsen is great for beginners, as the water temperature is the lowest of all the public onsens (around 43°C).
Address | 8955 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Yokochi-no-yu Onsen
Take a right when you exit Kumanoteara-yu onsen, then a quick left, a quick right, and then take a left. At the intersection with the Nozawa Onsen Kotsu Tour Office on your left, take a right and you will find Yokochi-no-yu onsen on the corner of the next intersection (confusing, I know!). But it is relatively easy to spot since this intersection has the only stoplight in Nozawa Onsen village!
This onsen is the first bathhouse on the circuit that is not located in a classic, Edo-style wooden building. Instead, Yokochi-no-yu is located in the basement of a white building with a stone wall facade. The circular granite hot spring bath on the interior resembles what most people think of when the term “hot tub” or “jacuzzi” comes to mind.
The onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and is colorless. It is said to be especially effective for skin diseases. In addition, it is also known to combat diabetes and hemorrhoids.
Address | 9784 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Shinden-no-yu Onsen
When exiting Yokochi-no-yu onsen, take a right at the stoplight onto the main road in Nozawa Onsen village. Shinden-no-yu onsen will be on your left after about a 3-minute walk. This bathhouse is on the larger side and is housed in an elegant, Edo-style wooden building.
The onsen water is a moderate temperature and has a slightly milky appearance. It originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and is said to be effective against diabetes, hemorrhoids, and rheumatism.
Address | Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Nakao-no-yu Onsen
Turn left out of Shinden-no-yu back onto the main road. Nakao-no-yu onsen, the furthest south in the village, will be on your left after about a 6-minute walk. This bathhouse is the largest of the soto-yu, and is a massive wooden building resembling a Buddhist temple.
The onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and is VERY hot (around 65°C). It is said to be effective against skin diseases, rheumatism, and gynecological diseases. It is also known to combat lead and mercury poisoning.
Address | 6661 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Jyuodo-no-yu Onsen
Turn left upon exiting Nakao-no-yu onsen, and take another left onto a road that runs in parallel to the main road. Walk north, slightly uphill, for about 8 minutes and Jyuodo-no-yu onsen will be on your left.
This bathhouse has arguably the least aesthetically-pleasing exterior of all the public onsen. It is located in a run-down white concrete building and is easy to miss if you are looking for a wooden building like the other onsen. It is also the only onsen with two levels — the ground floor is for women and the upper floor is for men.
However, looks can be deceiving and I found the milky-bluish water in this onsen to be some of the most tolerable and inviting of all 13 public onsen. The onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and its healing properties have been known to help combat rheumatism, gastrointestinal illness, and gynecological illness.
Address | 9604 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Akiha-no-yu Onsen
Upon exiting the Jyuodo-no-yu onsen, walk straight up the hill directly in front of the exit, keeping to the right at the fork in the road, and you will come upon the Akiha-no-yu onsen. This bathhouse is also located in a non-traditional white building, though much more aesthetically-pleasing than Jyuodo-no-yu!
The onsen water originates from the same source as Nakao-no-yu, a sulfur spring with gypsum salt. It is said to be effective against skin diseases, rheumatism, and gynecological diseases, and is also known to combat lead and mercury poisoning.
Address | 9687 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Matsuba-no-yu Onsen
Turn left out of Akiha-no-yu onsen but instead of going back down the hill, keep walking straight and then take a left. Matusba-no-yu onsen, the last stop on the onsen-hopping crawl, will be on your right. It is also just a short walk back to the main shopping street, Oyu-dori, bringing the onsen-crawl full circle.
In my opinion, this bathhouse has the most beautiful exterior. The top-level is built to resemble a wooden Buddhist temple, but it has a beautiful stone wall facade on the ground level.
The onsen water originates from a sulfur spring with gypsum salt and is said to be effective against diabetes and hemorrhoids.
Address | 9481 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6 AM–11 PM (Dec-Mar); 5 AM–11 PM (Apr-Nov)
Cost | Free (Donations Appreciated)
Google Maps
Private Onsen
Furusato no-yu Onsen
In addition to the 13 free public onsen in the village, there is also a privately-owned bathhouse called Furusato no-yu. It is also known unofficially as the “14th soto-yu” and you can visit it for a fee. Furusato no-yu has the same Edo-era wooden exterior as the majority of the public onsen, but was actually just built in 2011 and has a more spacious, modern interior than the public onsen.
There are two baths inside heated to different temperatures varying from 41°C and 45°C (which is cooler than the public onsen if you find that water to be too scalding) and also an outside onsen (which you will not find at any of the public onsen). Furusato no-yu also provides amenities such as soap, shampoo, and showers, unlike the public onsen.
Address | 8706 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 10 AM–8 AM (closed Thursdays)
Cost | ¥ 500 (¥ 400 guest discount)
Website | Google Maps
Sparena Resort
You can find yet another hot spring option in Nozawa Onsen at the Sparena Resort. This privately-owned resort is housed in a very large, modern building located near the Nagasaka Gondola. There are indoor and outdoor hot spring baths, a sauna, a relaxation room, an on-site restaurant and convention center at the complex. Like Furusato no-yu, the outdoor bath at the Sparena Resort has been awarded gensen kakenagashi status for having water flowing continuously from its original source.
Unlike the 13 public onsen and Furusato no-yu, you are allowed to wear a swimsuit in these hot springs. So if you’re not keen on bathing in your birthday suit with the local villagers, then you should head to Sparena. (But, really, bathing nude in the onsen is part of the quintessential Japanese experience so you should give it a try!). The water temperatures are also lower compared to the public onsen so this is another good option for onsen newbies. You’re also able to rent a swimsuit, bath towel, and face towel if you did not bring your own.
Address | 6748 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 6:30 AM–8:30 PM (Dec-Mar); 1 PM–8:30 PM (hot spring)
Cost | ¥ 700 (¥ 600 with lift ticket)
Website | Google Maps
Ashi-yu Onsen Foot Baths
If you are short for time or just don’t feel like stripping down naked with strangers, then you should seek out one of the ashi-yu onsen foot baths dotted around the village. These cute wooden troughs are filled with hot spring water and are open to the public. They are especially great for soaking your tired feet after a day on the slopes – simply kick off your shoes, roll up your pant legs, and sit back and relax your feet in the piping hot water!
The most popular and central foot bath in the village is the Akuto-yu foot bath, located directly across from the O-yu public onsen. The other popular foot bath is Yurari, located just around the corner from the Ogama cooking onsen (see below for more information on that). This foot bath is situated on an overlook at the top of the village and is THE BEST place to watch the sunset! Unfortunately, it is only open during non-winter months, though.
Akuto-yu Foot Bath
Address | 9286 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 24 hours
Cost | Free
Google Maps
Yurari Foot Bath
Address | 9301-2 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 24 hours (Closed in Winter)
Cost | Free
Google Maps
Ogama Cooking Onsen
In addition to the 13 public onsen, private onsen, and onsen footbaths dotted about the village, there is one more onsen that may be the most famous of all! However, this onsen IS NOT for bathing. Ogama cooking onsen is an outdoor hot spring located at the top of the village.
It consists of five different pools of steaming hot water reaching temperatures up to 90°C and is used by locals as an outdoor kitchen. Villagers cook vegetables such as nozawana and corn, boil eggs, and soften the reeds used to make the local akebi handicrafts in the cooking onsen water.
Because of the dangerously high temperature of the water, access is restricted to locals only. But visitors can observe the villagers at work from just outside the fenced-off area. Make sure to stop by the nearby stores to sample some onsen-cooked eggs or ears of corn!
Address | 8713 Toyosato, Nozawaonsen, Shimotakai District, Nagano 389-2502, Japan
Hours | 24 hours
Cost | Free
Website | Google Maps
So, there you have it — a complete guide to onsen-hopping in Nozawa Onsen, Japan! I hope you find this useful for going on a do-it-yourself onsen crawl on your visit to this iconic Japanese onsen village!
Are you ready for your onsen-hopping crawl?
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